ghosts from the future
Our hotel is allegedly a ghost hotspot. It's on all sorts of lists of most haunted places. Real ghostbusters have been called in to assess the situation. Identified ghosts have been a depressed young girl and a couple from the 1920s. One guest claims that a white-haired woman sat on the side of his bed, stroking him and saying she would never let him go. Although the hallways and stairwells have a bit of the Overlook Hotel in them, we haven't been troubled by ghosts here at all.
But in other places, maybe. I've had a vague sense of haunting my own past self--the child getting her portrait painted in Jackson Square, visiting Santa at Maison Blanche; the teenager trying to sneak as many mimosas as possible during breakfast and break free to roam the Quarter alone; the college student in her first strip club, at a football game in the Superdome; the adult trying to find an affordable Rodrique, at an anthropology meeting at the Hyatt, finding the outsider artist known for painting shoe shine advertisements on slate, dragging her kids to get beignets. I feel rather like the ghost of Christmas yet to come, the messenger from the bad future, the future into which we are headed and are not likely to avoid.
The shoeshine painter is gone from Jackson Square. A gallery owner told me he's in Texas. In St. Bernard Parish, what appears most strongly is what's missing, a parish-wide ground zero outside Liebeskind's range. Banners advertise a new Trump tower, opening in December 2007. It doesn't seem to have been built. I was surprised the Hyatt is closed. No indication of renovation or repair. It just remains as a too large building, occupying too much space. An office building, perhaps called New Orleans Centre, had been adjacent to it. Now part of that building is a clinic. The rest seems abandoned. We saw a strange sign: first floor spoiled rotten.
New Orleans has always been decaying--it's built in a swamp. It's always been a memory of someone's dream of it, from the time that it was pitched to French investors. It has always been mired in a past fantasy. Now, if such a term is even possible here, now it's stuck in the future, the future of a country that doesn't have the money or energy to clean itself up and that is learning to expect no better.Yes, there are facades, spaces for consumption and things to do and buy and forget and discard. The weeds grow up around these places, taking back the old places till we forgot why they were ever there at all.




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